crooked tongues magazine News Features

All that clicking can take its toll on a forefinger. There's enough click-throughs out there in the quest for those all-important page impressions. Here's all our Q&As from the last week in one place. It's a lot of scrolling down and you'll note that some interview subjects weren't quite as candid as other were, but we think all the shoes mentioned (it was meant to be a top 10, but it ended up being a top 14) and 12 interviews were worth gathering for posterity. Notable exclusions included the Air Mag and SB Koston, but we've got in-depth conversations with the minds behind the shoes elsewhere in the Features section. PUMA's Shadow Society would have been here too, but the top secret nature of the collaborators made an interview difficult. Hopefully some of these chats flesh out the development of some of 2011's finest retros, new models and makeups...



CONVERSE KICKS/HI ALL STAR HI (CHRIS KAM Q&A)

We've got a lot of time for our friends at KICKS/HI who celebrated a decade in business this year. All the minds behind the store — from the owners to the folk behind the till — know their shit and their Honolulu, Hawaii location gives them access to a unique clientele. This was the year that all-over patterns crept back into consciousness via a camouflage fetish.

We love tiger stripe camo, whether it's the special ops secrecy certain patterns carry, the nuances that can fill a book or Martin Sheen and his crew's off-the-books assassination mission on 'Apocalypse Now.' It's a powerful thing. In the wrong hands, it'll disguise itself on the shelves by merging with the other mediocrity, but done right, it's the trained killer of rival camo-laced gear. KICKS/HI and the Converse First String team gave the All-Star the tiger treatment, concealed the rubber toe cap and made the outsole bright orange as if to undo that disguise with every step. It was an excellent release, capitalizing on the Chuck Taylor's ability to carry a camouflage and only available from KICKS/HI and Chicago's St. Alfred, or online briefly at Bricksworth.com. Chucks always look a little more substantial without that sole stripe. In a year of military themed shoes, this was Staff Sergeant Bob Barnes to the platoons of crappy camo Bilkos.

We caught up with KICKS/HI's Art Director, Chris Kam to talk us through the creation and release of their Chuck...

Firstly, congratulations on the 10th anniversary year. KICKS/HI has been smart with the collabs — do you think it's tougher to get attention on the dual-label front these days?

The collaboration market has definitely been somewhat over saturated the past 2-3 years, thus creating double name projects with brands that actually have a common ground with each other and the all-important good story behind the design is paramount in making sure it not only stands out, but also that it lasts longer than a mouse click on someone's browser.

Does Hawaii have a different sneaker aesthetic? What's selling for you guys at the moment?

Hawaii is very unique in that we are an island chain in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. We aren't bound to any coast — therefore, we are able to take influences from all over the world and mix it with our islander aesthetics. Its a tropical climate year round so we are more inclined to wear t-shirts, shorts and the like, but at the same time, style it out so that it doesn't come across as "beach bum". We have seen our Converse/Converse First String business grow exponentially over this past year. Vans Vault does really well for us. Nike running has made a welcome surge this year as well.

The All-Star is a deceptively tough shoe to remake...how did the concept for your version come together?

The beauty of Chuck Taylor All-Stars is that EVERYONE has owned a pair of them in their lifetime — if not grown up in them as their childhood shoe. That commonality gives us, or anyone that does a special make-up of the shoe, an opportunity for that many more people to check for the shoe. I've owned over 20 pairs of the hi and low top optical white, canvas Chucks in my life, and have worn the black, canvas Chuck hi-tops to all my proms in high school. That connection to the brand/product has always been there for me, and if you ask anyone else at the shop, they will have a similar story. The choice to make a Chuck Taylor hi was based on a couple of factors: 1. our previous Converse collab was a Chuck Taylor low (Sig Zane x KICKS/HI) 2. hi-tops have come on strong again recently, and 3. a full upper print would make much more of an impact on a hi-top because of the extra surface area.

The tiger shark to camo idea is the best excuse we've heard with regards to using camo. Are you all camo heads at the store and office? We love the special forces connotations that tiger carries. Was the recent boom in camo a happy coincidence with this project?

Everything we do with KICKS/HI is always a natural extension of things we are into. We love camo/military, sports, music, that 'lo, skateboarding...things we've grown up with, and would continue to be into even without the shop. The shop has afforded us an outlet to share all of these loves of ours with others and to put on for Hawaii.

The tiger camo made a lot of sense for us for a couple of reasons: we saw an influx of a lot of camo patterns over the past year, but a shop favorite has always been the tiger camo pattern or WWII Italian camo. There is a strong military history in Hawaii, and that factored into choosing to run a camo pattern too. Our shop mascot has always been a tiger shark, and you can see how we made that connection with tiger camo and tiger shark.

How long did it take from start to finish?

We first presented the Converse First String team with a proposal at the end of 2010 with the KICKS/HI 10th Anniversary 'Tiger Camo' Chuck Taylor Hi launching October 22, 2011. Just a little over a year to make it happen.

Were you happy with the reception it got? We all seem to try to shake it, but we all love to measure how loved a shoe is by how fast it sells — how quickly did this shoe sell out?

I think it was more that we were all astounded by the reception the shoe has received. It was covered by every single blog we can think of, and then we had dudes like Clark Kent personally trying to track down a pair for himself, which only validated that we had designed something special. We sold out of the shoe in less than a day. We had put it up in our online shop, but had to shut down the online sales in less than an hour because the amount of traffic crashed our server. We still have calls daily from customers around the world trying to get a pair. We are still somewhat shocked that it made waves like that.

The orange outsole was a risky touch — what was the inspiration with that? Was it still on that military thing?

From the onset of KICKS/HI creating our own branded products and collaborations, we have involved colour branding of Pantone 165 C, which we have adopted as our KICKS/HI orange. That orange outsole has been our signature calling card for most of our collab shoes so that its the last thing you see when someone is walking away. Subliminal. In the design of this tiger camo Chuck Taylor, the orange did also have a connection with the military pairing of olive greens and orange — like the colours found on MA-1 flight jackets.

Was the tiger camo custom designed for the shoe?

I originally digitized an existing tiger camo pattern from a vintage jacket I had, and then submitted that to Matt Sleep at Converse First String, where he and their team came up with the colourway you see on the shoe. The pattern is actually pin-point laser printed onto the material upper — as opposed to just printing on to a fabric with a traditional silk screen process.

The attention to detail on the tongues was a nice touch — is it tough to stamp an identity onto a shoe like this?

Although we have done our fair share of projects over the past 10 years, we always try to look at each project like its our first, and I think its that feeling of anxiousness to create a strong design story that makes us really push ourselves every time to almost obsessively make sure every detail possible that we can tweak is addressed. The tongue corner tab hits were great additions by the First String team, and this is where I believe the beauty of collaborations lies: it cannot be just one side making the product and then stamping both parties name on it and calling it a collab because that exchange of ideas is what can take a project to another level.

We grew up obsessed with what rappers were wearing — when Wiz Khalifa wore a pair, how was the reaction in terms of the store phone ringing and tweet/Facebook/email harassment?

Seeing Wiz in the shoe was dope. To be perfectly honest with you, I always get an overwhelming feeling of pride when I see ANYONE wearing a KICKS/HI tee or product that we designed — not just when it's on a celebrity, but yes, it is cool when it does reach people that are more visible in that sense.






NIKE SPORTSWEAR ZOOM MERIWETHER ACG (NATHAN VANHOOK Q&A)

We love ACG shoes. We're obsessed with Nike boots, and the (RED) and Fragment editions of this model were some of the best collaborations of the year. There's a lot to love right here if you're a fan of All Conditions Gear, and if you're not at least a little bit appreciative of ACG, then you're probably in the wrong place right now.

Presumably named after legendary American explorer Meriwether Lewis the Meriwether's merger of total progression and traditional hiker implements Trail Frame, Zoom Air and some sealed zipper futurism. It's an amazing shoe — in its original materials it was a winner, but when the fragment edition added a hairy suede in line with some early '80s climbing icons, our minds were collectively blown.

This is our kind of shoe, nimbly scaling the treacherous gap between heritage yawn and what the footwear of the future will look like. Nike Sportswear's Senior Footwear Designer Nathan VanHook is the man who headed up operation Meriwether. He's the one creating some of our favourite new shoes, channeling the spirit of Tinker, Peter and Sergio's very best ACG work for this modern masterpiece, and joining the Wildedge, Ashiko, Macleays and Lunarwoods as office favourites, that upgrade and maintain the power of one of Nike's most abstract and influential wings. We asked Mr. VanHook a little more about the development of this design...

Is the ACG label kind of an open source project within Nike these days? We've seen performance and Sportswear pieces over the last year...

We've been using the ACG label on product that are meant for the outdoors. As you well, know, the label stands for authenticity and a different way of approaching product. The Zoom Meriwether falls under the ACG approach.

Is the Meriwether built as a lifestyle shoe with performance capabilities?

The Meriwether is built on the ACG Zoom Morizaba Trail Frame platform as a performance trail shoe. It has a wearable spin on it, but they can be put through the rigours.

Was the design inspired by technical jackets?

We — the design team — are fans of Nike Tech Pack and it inspired what was done on the Lunar Orbit and we used the same PU coated water resistant zipper on the Zoom Meriwether. The zipper helps to get in and out of the shoe easier, and improves the functionality of the shoe.

What's interesting about the Meriwether is that —like the Ashiko Boot — it's progressive in nature when there's an emphasis on heritage these days. Do you see things moving forward?

Obviously as a company we are looking to innovate. Take things forward, make them new, make then new and better. We’re proud that we can create product that others cannot. Moving forward I think in terms of heritage, it’s about how you make those products today. If we’re making a "heritage" product, how do we make it with what 2012 techniques have to offer?

What was the brief for the Meriwether project?

The Zoom Meriwether was something that spun off how people were reacting to the Lunar Macleay. We wanted to bring something that embodied ACG, but twisted the traditions of a hiking boot.

Looking at trail shoes from Nike's past, this slots perfectly into the timeline — do you look at the old stuff before pursuing a project like this? It has that requisite ACG "oddness."

It's great to hear you people feel the Zoom Meriwether fits well into the timeline. We are just trying to continue the lineage of great product with a lot of character. We’re definitely digging into the archive when we start a project like this.

How does the Trail Frame technology work?

The Trail Frame has a stiff composite board sandwiched between the rubber outsole lugs and the midsole. This keeps the forefoot stiff for hiking, while also eliminating punctures from debris.

The attention-to-detail on the Meriwether is amazing— like the lettering by the zip detail. Is that something you look for in a shoe?

I think that’s something we try to address in every shoe our team puts out there. The little details are something that makes it special; from the grip texture on the zipper pull, the reveals on the lace hardware, the padded Fuse style collar, reflective accents to the "Designed and Tested In" debossed tag line. We appreciate that type of work in product and hope people do too.

Like the Lunar Macleay there seems to be a Portland theme —was the whole protective wraparound toe inspired by the local boot making/hiking footwear industry?

This part of the world is huge for the outdoors. The Lunar Macleay and the Zoom Meriwether both embody the culture of the Pacific Northwest and the lifestyle in Oregon. The wraparound tongue panel makes a nod to a proven way of keeping water out of the tongue, but the Zoom Meriwether was a twist on what you would think a classic hiker would looks like.

We saw the Lunar Macleay on the moodboard at Stone Island — is the aim to inspire what comes next too?

That’s cool. It is great hear that what we do inspires companies and designers we respect. I think Nike has always been a reference point for innovation and design. We have to have a foot in the future at all times.

If you're visiting other cities do you watch what's on people's feet? DC, Baltimore, NYC and Philly have a real Nike boot culture.

It’s natural to check out what people wear — especially if your job is designing footwear. I think the aim though isn't to bring people product they want currently, but to design things they didn’t realise they wanted.

Do you have a particular favourite makeup of the shoe so far?

I helped out with the HF Fragment version of the Zoom Meriwether and I enjoy the colourway of the navy prototype, with the pop zipper and the water resistant hairy suede that was used. It's very wearable while also highlighting the zipper entry.






REEBOK VINTAGE CLASSIC PACK (PAUL SMITH Q&A)

Being Brits, we have a tendency to gravitate towards Reebok's white-on-white output. As a chapter in the history of sneakers, Reebok's decision to use garment leather on a range of shoes that capitalised on a boom in aerobics and hobbyist fitness habits using stretchy garment leather (that may or may not have been added to a sample by accident) deemed unusable by rival brands is a remarkable one. These shoes are design classics. The chav talk? Whatever. Anyone chatting that nonsense on these shores got into sports footwear during the Dunk era. There's no other reason why anybody would write off the Workout in its finest form (we prefer the Workout Plus to the plain toed original).

There's a lot of attempts to bring back shoes in their real form from other brands — with adidas with the Superstar in early '05 and Nike's VNTG running retros being pinnacles — but Reebok's decision to resurrect the flawless soft leather uppers of their woven label gym shoes? Strange choice. But rather than make these look like they'd been wading in some mysterious yellow liquid to evoke a deadstock coma feel, the stitching, distressed foam and faint glue leak twinned with a comforting familiarity made these an unexpected highlight of the year. If you're currently feeling the effects of 48 hours of leftover food and 12 months of a conceptual onslaught on the shoe front, the Reebok Classics Vintage Pack is the antidote to the bloat. We caught up with Reebok Design Manager Paul Smith to talk about the process of ageing a product with dignity...

How did the Vintage Collection project come about?

Vintage fashion was trending in the market place at the time and we wanted to revisit what made the shoes so great back in the day. We looked at some of the very first samples and dissected everything.

Do you think it's kind of flattering that many of us have never considered how old some of the workout collection shoes are?

They've always been around us. Classics are timeless, they've stood the test of time.

Do models like the Classic resonate as hard Stateside as they do in Europe and specifically, the UK?

Yes, although their loyalty in the UK is more with certain buyers as opposed to in the States where I'd say they have pretty region specific loyalty. Stateside, we know the Classics are big in the south thanks to the likes of Soulja Slim and of course the Freestyle was big in NY, dubbed the 54.11 thanks to its retail price ($49.99 + tax = $54.11).

Were any original pairs dissected to make the Vintage collection?

Absolutely. We took everything apart and followed each detail faithfully right down to the yellowed satin size label which is stitched onto the tongue lining. Some things had been modified over the years like the upper had been covered with a nylon lining in parts. We took this out on the Classic Leather so that you can see that great garment leather from inside the shoe as well.

Is it tough to sell in a project like the Vintage pack internally? The selling point with the Classics is that they're so clean, so yellowing could have gone badly wrong...

I think because we didn't over do the distressing that everybody still recognised that the shoes were very wearable. It's about subtle details like the rough buffing stone we used on the EVA midsoles to stay true to the era. We actually ordered the yellow foam and specified the colour so that it looked old.

A shoe like the Workout Plus is so subtle —— do you think the original designers are overlooked when we talk about pioneering silhouettes like these?

Not really. Everybody knows who created the original styles and they are more the godfathers of the industry, whichever brand it is.

Do you still use the same suppliers of garment leather? How different do you think things would have been for Reebok without that stretchy material?

We used the same tannery that was used for the original shoes all those years ago and that's why the product looks so authentic. Using garment leather was ground breaking and unique to Reebok at the time and was definitely a game changer for the brand.

How long did the Vintage pack take from development to release?

It took a year and we went through many trials to get it just right.

What was restored and altered for the Vintage releases? Even the thread seems to be a little more authentic.

We added more stitches per inch to give them a crafted look of the day. I also noticed that the sock liner had a thin medium density foam cover on it which gave an amazing soft feel when you first put the shoes on. It's something I always remember from my first pair of Reebok shoes so we added this back in.





NEW BALANCE M998 MADE IN THE USA (JENNIFER LYNCH Q&A)


The M998 isn't a new shoe — it dates back to late 1992, and its been available Stateside as a retro for a while on and off. but on UK shores, we'd had trouble finding pairs, making this running design a shoe we've long lusted after in sufficient supplies. We'd spotted 998s in Japan over the years, but had sizing issues in a land where US10 was bigfoot status, and the all grey deadstock pro-runner stacks ran dry a couple of years ago. We love the 998. Not quite as much as we love 1991's 997 in US-made form, but it runs pretty close. This is the kind of shoe we can throw on and keep wearing for three months straight — comfort, quality, performance heritage and New Balance's reassuringly expensive price tag ($125 in the early '90s was no joke) twinned with the made in the USA factory build quality and material picks makes these necessary purchases. They're pretty much perfect. In fact, if we just had a stack of 998s in a plethora of neutral tones, we're concerned that we'd stop caring about any other shoe. Yeah, our love runs that deep. Progressive without resorting to daft gimmicks M998GB, 998GNR and the black/reds? Crack for your foot. Anybody else remember Bill Clinton rocking this model, as well as Al Gore, during their short-shorts jogs back in the day (after Bill used to wear the 997 with the "Mr. President" embroidery — the greatest SMU ever?)? Slick Willie knew.

Jennifer Lynch, Senior Product Manager for New Balance Lifestyle at the Boston MA HQ of the brand kindly took the time out to answer some 997 retro-related questions and wisely evaded our attempts to get her to disclose what's coming next on the heritage runner front...

US-made New Balance has had a big year — why do you think people have flocked to the lifestyle pieces?

I believe that people are interested in Made in USA because it is at the core of what NB represents. In addition there has been increased interest in quality, crafted products that are Made in the USA. Our commitment to domestic manufacturing coupled with the increased appreciation for Made in the USA products has positioned our lifestyle product perfectly within this trend as they are iconic New Balance classics that are crafted by some of our greatest shoe makers.

In the current climate is it tough to create product at a good price without compromise?

We always strive to create quality despite increases we are currently experiencing. We believe that New Balance stands for quality and we look to achieve it throughout our entire product range.

The US-made 998 is one of our favourite shoes of 2011 because they just appeared in the UK this year — why do you think that shoe resonates with an audience like it does?

The New Balance 998 is a great representation of our 990 series, and it shows the evolution of the iconic series throughout our classic history. Due to the fact that it is a slightly different profile as compared to our 991 and 996, it is a great compliment to the assortment and a great way to extend the appeal of the series in a fresh and evolved take on the classic 990.

New Balance has such an artillery of strong runners to pick from — are there any more early 1990s classics you'd like to see return at some point?

We are currently working on bringing back archival classics that tell stories of our history and our commitment to local manufacturing. Not to be cheeky, but you’ll have to wait and see!

While they're a lifestyle release, is there a reasonable-sized audience of people who still run in shoes like the 1300 or 998?

The best part about these lifestyle releases is that they were originally built for the performance runner. My belief is that there are probably people running in them, but we hope most purchasers of these shoes are wearing them as lifestyle classics.

Could we see more shoes added to the custom program beyond the 574 that are US-made?

We are looking to extend the offerings in our custom program, but nothing has been finalised at this time.

How particular are you in picking materials? The suedes and even the lace weave are all something that's quintessentially NB...

We strive to maintain the authentic materialization of the shoes while adding modern touches and design inspirations. Part of what we love about our Made in the USA classics is that the shoes are timeless and truly represent New Balance.

Does the US New Balance HQ house a substantial archive?

We do have an archive here in the US and at our key global headquarters worldwide.

Is a shoe like the 998 retro made on the original lasts? There must have been several made originally to cater for different widths.

When we re-introduce archival styles such as the 998, we look to do so on the original lasts in order to retain as much authenticity as possible.

Are some of the design minds and factory staff who created shoes like the 998 the first time around still working within the organisation?

Yes. We are very fortunate to have associates within New Balance that have been around to see the re-releases of our archival classics. They have been a tremendous resource in assuring our executions of the styles measure up to the original version.

Does the surge in popularity of the J Crew 1400 mean extra workers, extra shifts and a rush to meet demand?

The popularity of the New Balance and J Crew 1400 has certainly been great both in terms of visibility and demand. We feel that our partnership with J. Crew has really highlighted some of the great work being produced by our US factories on all of our archival classic styles.





ADIDAS FORUM HI 'CREST' & 'KENNEDY' NEW BALANCE 999 (FRANK THE BUTCHER Q&A)

We know, we know. The industry is rife with circle jerk between buddies and brands, but you've got to give it to those who just bring the ruckus when it comes to a collaboration and appreciate the same things that we do. Age probably plays its part, as does an obsession with hip-hop, and Frank "The Butcher" Rivera is a like mind. So we get on well. But even if we weren't cool with Frank and even if he didn't take our Frank Butcher Mike Reid "Rickaaaaaay" jokes with good grace, we'd still be bigging up his collaborative work this year. Its been a good year for blokes with beards and Frank's work on the 'Kennedy' 999 as brand manager for Concepts and his Forum Hi trio for Boylston Trading Company are our kind of shoes.

We won't lie — we thought New Balance were over the conceptual stuff and had realised that they just need to apply the right grey shades of suede to stay on top and when we heard that the new Concepts shoe had a yachting theme, we were very, very skeptical. But the end result was the right balance of simple stuff to unite the collectors and chino kids and deceptive detail levels. Plus it was an M999. Who does M999s? We've always associated that 1996 running design that brought us a 3D midfoot, more ABZORB and the beefed-up PU sole — after the more traditional 998's curves three years prior — with the affordable but excellent Asian-made variations we found in the Far East. We never thought it would have kids queuing around the block until the Kennedy dropped. Now the M999 has made noise, we'd love to see 1986's M995 with the fat 'N' make a comeback to complete the set, seeing as we've barely seen it since the M996 superseded it in 1989.

Then there was Frank's adidas release. As fans of adidas basketball designs, we've long maintained that the Forum never gets the respect it deserves. We've never been able to forgive and forget the rage in the office when we saw the shoe with an Air Force 1 copy sole as a Consortium design. The Forum Hi isn't an AF1. It's its own shoe — the most expensive basketball shoe on the market for half a decade and the epitome of hardcourt luxury, bringing Dellinger webbing and an angular Velcro strap that's lost in design when it comes to the more readily available Forum Mid. We hadn't seen a Hi since Jeremy Scott's 2002 "Money" edition (we have no idea why the B-Side edition made it a Mid), so when Frank decided he wanted to remake some tonal, crested editions he obsessed over from his childhood in an over-the-ankle cut, we were over the moon.

Passion projects are the best projects. It's just a shame that some many of them are eliminated before they even make sample stage — that's why we celebrate shoes like these. We caught up with Frank at the end of a major year for him to interrogate him about his footwear choices and what comes next...

Frank, how hard do you find it to get collaboration off the ground? People always seem to talk as if it's the easiest thing in the world, but it's surprisingly difficult...

It’s absolutely difficult, some projects more than others. The one thing people might not understand is that there is a compromise that needs to be met during a partnership project. I might want to bring back this amazing archived model that I believe is a viable shoe but the shoe might not be in the long term plan for the company I’m working with. Finding a place where both parties are comfortable is key. Designing is the easy part.

Why did you pick the 999 for the Kennedy? It's an unusual shoe to opt for...

Perfect example to support my previous answer. Who wouldn’t want to work on a 1500 or a 1300? Those are great shoes and popular models but at the time of the project New Balance had a long term plan to put push behind the 999. The opportunity was there to choose another shoe but in the spirit of teamwork we ran with the 999.

How come so few Kennedy 999s came to Europe?

To be honest, I was pissed off about that. You don’t have a win with a NB unless Europe responds, ha ha! It was all an internal distribution situation between NB North America and Europe. The Kennedy’s release date landed right smack in the middle of a re-organisation of distribution. It was a small window where it was difficult for UK to get US projects and it wasn’t our decision or our intention. I needed that shoe to hit hard over there.

Are you obsessive when it comes to fabric choices and quality control? Production, manufacturing and transport is expensive, so it's hard to make the buyer get their money's worth. You still buy shoes at fanboy level, right?

Sometimes the advantage of a special project is people not minding to go deeper in their pockets if the shoe is worth it. I try to find a balance of quality, execution and price. The scale always swings towards quality for me. Maybe it’s my age but I want to buy and make good shit. Product with integrity is key for me.

Do you find it crazy to see people wearing your 999 at street level? That was a shoe that we associated with Japanese kids and us nerds...

It is crazy. I’ve seen hood dudes and college preps rocking the shoe. Truth be told, I don’t like the 999 model that much. Too wide for me. I’m glad it was so widely accepted. It shows that a shoe can take on many forms — it all depends on what you did with it.

Sidebar: New Balance’s lawyers didn't like that I called it the Kennedy without clearing it with them for legal reasons. BUT it all worked out in the end!

In the case of the Forum Hi and the 999, you opted for shoes that weren't your average collaboration pick — was it hard to explain why you wanted those shoes covered?

Absolutely! In the case of the Forum, explaining why something was valuable to me 20-something years ago to people who weren’t there took some time. I believe the passion helped the cause though. Had to respect it but I also needed to respect that the Forum wasn't flying off the shelves either. adidas took a leap of faith.

Do you find it kind of depressing that some "sneakerhead" worldviews can be so small in terms of model picks? Do you think brands could help themselves by shouting a little louder with regards to what they've got?

“Sneakerhead” culture is a bit different today and is motivated by an alternate set of ideals than the previous generation. Some kids wear horse blinders and are missing out on a lot of great shoes. For example, The Forum wouldn’t have seen the light of day if it were based on “sneakerhead” demand. We (as in brands and designers) need to give kids a reason to want to wear something. Scream the reasons why!

Do you find it odd that the stories of some of these shoes haven't been told before? It's curious that we see the same models, but there's a ton of pieces in the archive that are built on similar lasts and tooling...

Companies don’t want to do the work. Plain and simple. Time, energy and money are the reasons why stories are not told properly. Breaks my heart. Information goes a long way. Why do the Air Revolution and the Air Jordan 3 share inspiration? Maybe that story could spark interest in the Revolution or that era of lasts and tooling.

When was the last Forum Hi before the Crest one?

I wish I knew — early nineties for sure. We don’t know a lot of things that pertain to the Forum timeline. I wanted to walk away knowing more about the Forum — I did but I was just hoping for an Indiana Jones type discovery.

Will we see more Forum Hi and 999 colourways now as a result of these releases?

Inline 999s went into rotation after the Kennedy dropped and I know there are other colabs on the model dropping soon. Hopefully NB keeps the momentum up. Forum is dropping in Mids mostly — until I do the next set of colours! Olive? Royal? I don’t really have plans yet on working on the Hi again but hope this answer starts rumours.

What's your favourite sneaker on a record cover moment?

That’s easy! Philadelphia’s 3XDope’s ‘Original Stylin’ 12” cover. EST, Chuck Nice and Woody Wood were wearing Air Jordan 3s. White cement, Black Cement and Fire Reds — and I’m not talking retros bro.

What would your dream sneaker project be if a shoe genie appeared and gave you whatever shoe you wanted, old or new?

Trying to crack the Fila vault!





ADIDAS ORIGINALS ZX 380 (NOAH BERNARD Q&A)

adidas resurrect shoes a lot better than most other brands do, but that's because their archive is peppered with some masterpieces for pretty much every possible discipline. The ZX collection is a particular preoccupation for us, because of their legacy, plenty of youthful aspiration and their ageless, clinical cool. We wanted to see the ZX 930 back on the shelves alongside the current brace of brought-back runners, but we were more than happy to see the ZX 380 resurrected. Representing the 1986 era at its best and built for high mileage, the silhouette, Vario lacing and plenty of Dellinger shock absorbency with the iconic pattern made the ZX 380 one of our favourite retros of 2011. Shoes like this encapsulate a time just before things got really daft on the technology front.

Noah Bernard is Global Business Unit Director for adidas Originals product marketing. That means he has a vast say in what's brought back from the vaults. He kindly took the time out for a little Q&A...

One of our favourite reintroductions was the ZX 380 this year — subtle and what adidas does best. How does a reintroduction like that come about? Who decides on it?

Glad you like, we were pretty stoked on it coming out as well. We pick our reintroductions like we do all our products…..we look at what is either happening in the market or what is on the horizon and start to conceptualise what our unique opportunity is. Fortunately, adidas Originals has a HUGE back catalogue of great products to choose from. So we start there. All the designers and product marketers get the chance to put forth their suggestions based on the brief. Then through some long nights and heated discussions, we get to the best option. The ultimate decision lies with myself and the creative director, but 9 times out of 10 we all come to the same conclusion.

When you're retroing a shoe at Originals, do you use the original sketches from the archives or does a designer use an original pair as the reference point?

Both actually. One of the best parts about working at adidas Originals is the archive. There is an entire team dedicated to preserving our history. We have access to all the information which includes sketches, tech packs, shell patterns, old catalogues, and actual products. We also have some of the original designers still working with us, so if we get stuck on something it is a walk across the hall or a trip to Schienfeld (the factory where most of the archive is stored).

Bringing back a shoe in terms of tooling and lasts isn't cheap — is bringing back product something that's discussed in terms of cost implications?

Actually, the discussion is always about our consumer first. We want to bring the best, most relevant, and on trend product to the market that will resonate with our consumers. So rarely is tooling implications a consideration. If we feel it is the right shoe for the consumer, we go for it. All in.

adidas material quality is something that's always been a selling point — in the current climate is it tough to balance quality and value? The ZX 380 was very reasonably priced...

Yes, we take a great deal of pride in our material selections and quality is one of key product drivers. Fortunately, we have what I consider the best materials team in the industry at adidas Originals. The materials guys spend soooo much time doing the research and looking out for the best materials we can offer at the right price that it almost makes it easy to execute a beautiful product.

What are your personal favourites from the ZX collection?

Wow. That is like asking a parent which child is their favourite. I come from a running background, running shoes have always been in my soul, so picking my favourite ZX (in my opinion the best running collection ever) is nearly impossible. Each ZX shoe has a uniqueness that gives it a personality but because the series has spanned decades the shoe is familiar. That is what I love about the ZX collection, it remains a classic but keeps getting reinterpreted to stay fresh.

How important is telling the story of a product to you? There's a lot in adidas runners like Dellinger webbing or the lacing technologies...

The story is the second most important factor for us in Originals (the first is making an excellent product). We have such a rich history (and future) at Originals. And each of the products that we introduce has a story to tell. That story can be told via an era or an athlete or an event or a technology. It is awesome to have that kind of opportunity to tell those stories, it is almost our duty to share it with the consumer.

With the Olympics looming can we expect more running shoe resurrections for 2012?

Yes. The Olympics will be the perfect platform to bring back some true classics. Be on the lookout for another few favourites in 2012!

How long does a project like the 380 retro take from start to finish?

12 months, from concept review to seeing it on a shelf.

Why do you think the ZX series still carries such a vast fanbase?

Like I mentioned before, I think each of the ZX shoes has a unique personality. The series has spanned decades, has seen numerous iterations (and imitations), and still hits the mark with the consumer. People love it because each new ZX shoe is familiar in its form but new in its expression.





NIKE SPORTSWEAR AIR FLOW & LUNAR FLOW (NATE VANHOOK Q&A)

There's some shoes that have underpinned Crooked since the beginning. The Flow and its Current sibling have long been source of curiosity to us — '89's evolution of the Sock Racer (and we still love the '84 prototype neoprene runner Bruce Kilgore designed that set this off — we wish that got a release alongside some other protoype favourites) and the daddy of the Huarache was well received when it was rereleased in the summer. A well-concealed (how do you keep a shoe a secret until the day before in the current climate?) TZ drop of some Selfridges-only colours, a drop of the original makeups that came and went in a morning elevated a shoe that was once the domain of hardcore fans and onetime runners from oddity to  popularity. Old Nike lineup ads from '89, Prince Paul record sleeves and 'Boyz n the Hood' crackheads were no longer the sole spots to see this old favourite — from moderate success in its day to all internet in a space of a few days.

These are odd times. Bar small supplies, the hard-to-please hordes were happy with the way the Flow was handled, but before we saw the retro, we saw a remix and wondered whether it would be partnered with its predecessor. The Lunar Flow+ takes the shoe's looks and updates them successfully — usually the "if this shoe was released now, this is how would it look" ethos falls flat, because, say, a Dunk silhouette reeks of '85. There's no way that shape would drop now as a performance piece. But the Flow? It was always a shoe ahead of its time. The Lunar Flow+ took the duck-billed runner's best features, applied Fuse and Lunarlon, worked with the original colourways as well as some banging tonal makeups, and one of the best remixes of recent years was born. The OG and the remake came correct. For 2012 we're already seeing two new colourways of the Air Flow and we're anticipating further Lunar styles. And seeing as the tooling's lying around, maybe we'll see something a little more Current at some point in the not-too-distant future.

Once again, Nike Sportswear's Senior Footwear Designer, Nate VanHook took the time out to answer our questions on the Flow's return...

When it comes to reproducing a shoe are you conscious of what purists think?

We’re conscious of it when we bring back a model and we try to find a balance between something that is true to the original but is made today.

What leads to the resurrection of a shoe like the Flow?

We were launching the Lunar Flow and wanted to make sure people understood what an amazing piece of design (Air Flow) inspired it, so decided it would make a great re-release. We wanted to show the story of then and now on technology, and having the original was key to that.

Is remaking the colours hard? We hear the "oh, that colour's off" all the time...but it can't be easy to make it 1:1 if the Pantone isn't listed.

Our colour designers do a great job on that. It’s a tough gig to get right sometimes, with the challenges like you're referencing.

Do you check the feedback online?

You can’t really help it and I think it’s good to see how people respond to the work we put out.

Do old sketches get dug out for Nike Sportswear retro releases like the Flow and do old moulds get revived? Back in 1989 we're assuming that nobody thought a retro market would explode...

We definitely have to dive into the archive and see what we can find. You’re basically recreating everything so we try as hard as we can to check on details, shapes, etc.

Is it surprising to see a fairly obscure shoes from 1989 cause the excitement this summer?

Yes, but the Air Flow was ahead of its time from a design point of view.

Was Bruce Kilgore happy to see his shoe rereleased or do designers have a habit of staying progressive rather than revelling in retrospect?

We met with Bruce when we were working on the Lunar version and he told me all about the design process of the Air Flow and he thought it was great we were bringing back the old version and a modern interpretation. It was cool to see him wearing the Lunar Flows!

Do you think shoes like the Flow were underappreciated on their debut?

Nike often has products that are ahead of its time, if you think back to 1989 and what people were wearing the Air Flow and it's forefoot bootie and bright colorways was very out there. Its use of forefoot flex grooves, strategically placed rubber lugs and midsole were ahead of its time but really laid the groundwork for so much great product that came after it, from the Huarache to the Presto.







VANS VAULT (JON WARREN Q&A)

We couldn't single out a solitary Vans Vault shoe this year, but plenty stood out — the Aloha pack, the Ludwig pack's use of deadstock Vans fabrics and the Taka Hayashi remix of the Sk8 Hi were all excellent, but there was plenty more this year, and this Vans range always delivers pitch-perfect product down to custom packaging for individual collaborations. We're bored of the same boxes in the stacks we've amassed, so that's a plus point. For a while, Vault seemed to lack an identity, and we gravitated towards Syndicate, but over the last couple of years it became clear that Vault's modus operandi was good shit sold through select stockists. That's cool with us. Every brand could learn a little from Vans in how to do top tier right — and no shots, but if we want a shoe that looks like a Vans shoe, we'll buy a Vans shoe. Especially while they're dropping gems at the current rate.

Jon Warren, Head of Design for Vault, California Collection and Classics is a busy guy, but he took the time out to answer some questions...

What exactly is Vans Vault's role in the Vans family? It's far more than just a collaboration program...

Vault is a line that we challenge ourselves to push the brand in new directions. It give us the freedom to pay homage to the past while pushing forward. Vans has a history of constantly designing new models and we thought that we could carry that spirit along. At the time we started Vault just putting a premium material was forward thinking but as the market has evolved, so have we.

What's your take on the volume of "Vans-alikes" from high-end brands? Are collections like Vault a response to that?

We look at it as a compliment, that's the way fashion works. High end designers take cues from what the kids are wearing on the street and put their spin on it. We do the same in reverse, it's a healthy cycle and causes both the high end market and us to push forward. If they we not looking at us I feel that we would be going the wrong direction.

Have you made a conscious effort to elevate Vans over the last couple of years? It felt like the son of Syndicate for a while then the product got its own identity.

Every season we try to elevate the Vans footwear line — plain and simple. We want the brand to stay fresh so we are never truly satisfied, every season we treat our lines like we are a tiny company that is going to live or die by the latest collection. Also we refocused Vault by giving Taka Hayashi a platform to show his design skills and narrowed the footwear line so that what we made was the best of the best, we killed the fluff.

How does a release become a Vault release?

We've always worked in a very organic way, no cold calls. Every collaboration we worked on has been through a friend or a connection because of the love for the brand. You'd be surprised at how many people share the same passion for the brand that we do. I think that has always been the incredible thing about the collaborations here, the people we work with are such Vans people before we a start that it tends to be a great working relationship.

One thing we appreciate is the willingness to switch up a box and change the packaging for a release — how much more time and cash does that take up and why don't more people make that effort?

Thank you — Vault has always been a passion project. There is a lot of work that goes into these releases and each one takes a ton of time. We try and give the customer a total experience, that we thought through the entire process, from the packaging to all the details on the shoes. Vans as a brand has put a lot of trust in us as designers and realize how important it is to have a category like Vault. It is a line that is not held to the same financial constraints as other lines and is used as a area to explore and push the brand.

So many projects can lose the essence of the brands in the quest to look like a formal shoe or work boot, but the Vans DNA shines through in the Vans range — is that something you're keen to maintain in every release?

We love working here and grew up skating in these shoes, so always holding a tie to our past is essential. We like work boots and formal shoes and can appreciate that consumers are looking for different silhouettes. When we go after these type of designs we always try to think of what it would look like through a Vans lens. We want to look back 20 years from now and not be embarrassed of taking the brand off course. Most people don't remember but Vans has been making lugged shoes for almost 30 years. Our goal is to always keep being us, because we are really proud of who we are — a skateboard sneaker company.

Have you had a personal favorite Vault release from 2011?

Too hard of a question — plus I'm finishing up Spring 2013, so my mind is in a totally different space.

Who brought Taka Hayashi into the fold? His work really indicates that Vault offers a serious amount of creative freedom...

Taka Hayashi came into the fold because we hired him to design a graphic for a Syndicate Chukka Boot project in 2006. At the time he was doing freelance graphics for Stussy and had his own line, "Destroy Your Enemy". Taka grew up skating Venice and shared a lot of the same passions for skateboarding and sneakers like we did. We eventually hired him to do graphics and once he got in he started to hone his craft with sneaker design. Eventually Taka was designing such forward thinking projects that as a brand we decided to give him his own signature line. I think for the brand we are constantly pushing forward and this was a very organic way to see where we can take it. Taka is a artist first and designer second, so his ideas are always coming from a creative space and we are honoured to have him working for us.

How long do collaborative Vault releases take on average? There's a sense that it's far more painstaking than just firing an Illustrator file over...

All shoes take about 1 year 8 months to land in the marketplace. It's a very involved process that take numerous trips over to Asia, meetings with clients, marketing, sales, designers, collaborators, development, sourcing and material vendors. Also shoes are so much more than sending over illustrator files, it's a huge endeavour that involves everyone at the brand. So when you get that shoe in your hands remember that a lot of passion was poured into the shoe that you are about to wear.

Is the aim of Vault to act as a testing ground of sorts with ideas that could trickle down in-line?

We hope that all the shoes we design in Vault could trickle down in-line. However, like most things, trends come and go super fast and we really want to make sure that whatever receives the title Classic is going to be something that we as a brand can stand behind. We never want to introduce a Classic as something we feel would only be around for the now. Most of our Classics have been around 40 plus years and we plan on keeping it that way. Plus at the Vault level it's always good to keep you guessing what we will do next...





NIKE SPORTSWEAR ACG AIR MAX PRIME GTX (PETER FOGG Q&A)

We understand if this uncompromising silhouette isn't to your tastes, but if you like your ACG lineage done right, you've got to at least respect models like this. We could fill a 'Best of...' with old shoes in their original colours, but nobody wants to see that and it's an insult to the minds that brought us some great new shoes in 2011. Models like the Nike Sportswear ACG Air Max Prime GTX are a good barometer as to whether you're looking at this shoe thing the same way we are. As Brits, we appreciated the Bakin Posite Boot but found it hard to pull off, because we don't reside in Baltimore, DC or NYC, but the Air Max Prime GTX embodies the spirit of '98 in a progressive and — crucially — very wearable way. Everything's better with GORE-TEX and ever since our like minded friend, Mr. Frank the Butcher put us onto this model, we've been admirers.

The fact this shoe is designed by the legendary Peter Fogg is another plus-point. If you read the excellent interview with the man over at the Shoe Game, you'll know the details, but his story's an inspirational one, but the proof's in the product - he designed the Humara, Terra Humara, Terra Albis, Terra Minot and — on the ACG side — the Tallac (among other cult All Conditions Gear favourites). We're sure he was behind the Terra Ketchikan too. Nobody does GORE-TEX Nikes like Peter Fogg does GORE-TEX Nikes. For designing the Terra Humara, he's up there with the greats (it's good to hear that he was behind the updated Air Umara Terra Humara tribute model too), but looking at his body of work, it's clear that Peter Fogg is a Nike design hall of famer alongside Hatfield, Kilgore, Lozano, Teague, Avar and Moore. The ACG Air Max Prime GTX carries a lot of legacies in a single shoe — part of the fruits of Mr. Fogg's Nike Sportswear work and a project that's got us hyped for what he concocts with Nike Basketball in 2012.

Peter kindly took some time out to answer some ACG Air Max Prime related questions...

What was the brief for the Air Max ACG Prime? Is it an expansion of existing basketball-influenced pieces like the Bakin Boot?

We wanted to make a boot for the city consumer that uses his feet for transportation. He is wearing his boots all day for work, school and even out to the clubs with friends at night. The brief called for premium examples of technology, materials and details like GORE-TEX, full grain leathers and metal hardware. The Prime was not inspired by basketball but it does use the tooling from the Bakin Posit Boot.

Did any specific shoes inspire the Prime GTX? It's contemporary but it has an air of 1997 court shoe in the silhouette.

The Prime was inspired by technical old school hiking boots. The Air 130 ACG boot from the mid 90's added additional inspiration for classic yet modern lines.

Is it tough to work with something like the Air Max system when you're dealing with rugged boot designs?

Well, it's just a given that you have to work with. We wanted to reuse the Bakin Posit tooling. The Air Max system is great for the person wearing his boots all day and wants that air cushioned ride.

Was the Prime made to sit alongside the Goadome as a piece for city wear that has the scope to go off road?

The Prime was designed to sit with the Goadome. We wanted to give the Goadome consumer another choice or style to consider.

When it comes to pieces like the Prime are there any other old school ACG designers in the building who swing by during the design process?

Most of the old school ACG designers have moved on to new jobs like myself. The Prime was kind of under the radar.

Do you have any personal ACG favourites?

I have lots of favorites from ACG. The Zoom Ashiko, Zoom Tallac and Air Max Conquer are some of my boot favorites. The Mada and Mowabb are some other great ones from back in the day.

For some reason we're drawn to any Nike shoe with GORE-TEX — what is it about GORE-TEX that's so appealing?

GORE-TEX is the leader in waterproof, breathable membrane materials. I think they have great name recognition that is associated with quality.

The All Conditions line has never been cheap, so is there a certain liberation when it comes to working on ACG projects with regards to materials that isn't hindered by potential cost?

Not Really. With ACG it is kind of the opposite. Cost is a big issue especially now with the cost of materials and leathers going up. Adding GORE-TEX also adds cost to the final price. We try to keep the cost affordable and still bring a quality product to market.

Have you noticed a rise in interest when it comes to technical footwear?

I think there has always been interest in technical footwear. Well made quality product will appeal to the serious outdoor user and some times certain styles cross over to a broader consumer base.





POINTER PLUCKROSE (GARETH SKEWIS Q&A)

The Pointer Pluckrose ran neck and neck with the Air Force 1 Duck Boot as our favourite spin on LL Bean design of the year, but the lightweight warm weather shower theme put it in the lead. Pointer's really come of age with the Portugal-made product, but the Pluckrose's chukka-style cut, startlingly lightweight feel and beautiful build, plus scope for some sublime dual colour combinations on the upper made it one of the very best shoes we saw last year. Pointer's Gareth Skewis is the man too — he's both gnarly and gentlemanly, but crucially, he knows everything about everything in his chosen field. Models like the Pluckrose are the end result of a lifetime's fixations with music and sub-cultures, and we're glad that a silhouette that was initially frowned at turned out to be pretty successful. Who needs vulc when you've got EVA?

We quizzed Gareth on the development of the Pointer Pluckrose...

Gareth, what shoes inspired the Pluckrose silhouette?

Pointer has always been about rethinking classic silhouettes and putting a Pointer twist onto them. The Pluckrose idea came to me at a coffee shop in Dusseldorf in early 2010 when I was daydreaming about how amazing the women's L.L Bean low top Duck Boots were. It was pretty obvious that the whole outdoor/rugged feel was about to translate into footwear and I really wanted to do something that no one expected to see. So taking a classic Duck Boat silhouette and then making it a mid top made out of waxed canvas on an lightweight EVA sole, in my mind, was a good spring shower shoe.

How was the shoe received? It feels very "now" in a good way.

At first a lot of people we showed it to hated it and thought it was dreadful. If there's something I've learned from being involved in a brand that is trying to do something new and not be pigeonholed is that people often fear new things or things that they have no history of and can't reference. But once they've seen it out in the market and that design goes on to influence other designs, it's easy to put into a box, label and understand. There were of course people like yourself who got it instantly and got the idea that you could wear it with shorts and an umbrella on those hot rainy London afternoons.

Were there any troubles with waterproofing the shoe to start? A duck boot has to perform, right?

With using waxed canvas as we did in the spring/summer season there's only ever so much you can do to that fabric to make it water resistant. It is canvas after all, and the point of the design was that it was inverted — making a winter shoe for the summer. So the design had to perform in a certain way other then being waterproof.

We've seen a whole slew of duck boot "hybrids" this year — how long was the Pluckrose in development?

The Pluckrose came out on January 1st 2011 so SS11 and had been in development for about 8 months.

Was this shoe named after Mr. Gabriel Pluckrose? You've had a Lev shoe too with the Tanju — are you working in those Palace affiliations?

Yeah it was named after him. It is funny you should say about the Palace affiliations because I have never really thought that. Maybe some people could take it that way. The affiliation with Palace has always been there even before Palace was born out of a conversation with Lev about how safe, plain, calm and just boring skateboarding was. I don't know if anyone remembers what Lev did with myskateordie but it was amazing. Charlie Young and Gabriel have been modelling for Pointer long before Palace came along and kicked skateboarding in the balls. I think almost everyone on Palace has a shoe named after them, unfortunately a few have never make it past sampling. It's the same as naming shoes after people, artwork or records that you like, or find inspirational.

A lot more skate brands are creating casual non-skate shoes these days — do you feel that Pointer's been doing that since the beginning?

That was the entire reason for starting Pointer — to create a casual footwear inspired brand. So yeah you could say we have been doing that from day dot. It is funny looking at skateboard footwear, it went from being something I loved product wise- Airwalk Disasters, the first Natas Etnies, Half Cabs, Lampin's, Sal 23's, and so on. To something I am just numb to now. If anyone in the skateboard footwear industry is reading this, take a risk design-wise please.

Why is Portugal the spot to make footwear and apparel these days?

We have always strived to produce constructions in the places that are best know for those constructions. So vulc in China, moccasin in Portugal and so on.

We've seen a sharp rise in footwear prices this year — does that make it tough for an indie brand to survive?

I think it has always been pretty tough for indie shoe brands in general. But with the rise in costing and the pending melt down of the world economy is making it even hard as buyers do not really want to try anything smaller or new. But in times like this there is also loads of potential to gain market share and get your brand out there a bit more.

In 2011 you've dropped a few collaborations after a few years of avoiding that — what qualifications do you look for in a colab partner?

The reason we avoided co branded product in the start is because as a new brand you really need to have your own look and feel established, with your own hand writing before you decide to go and make product with a partner. Collaborations at the right time can work really well and at the wrong time they can really hurt you. The reason we choose to work with Anderson Belts, Porter and COMME des GARÇONS is because in our opinion they are the best at what they do. That is the stance we take when choosing to work with people.

Do you feel that Pointer's outgrown any perceptions that you're solely a vulc sole brand?

I think so and I really hope the market feels the same. The entire idea behind Pointer is much more of a lifestyle based brand and not a single silhouette brand. It's more of a design concept being implemented over certain styles of footwear, so you can buy a pair of vulc shoes from us to wear in the summer but you can also buy something a bit smarter to wear out or to work. We really had to start with vulc footwear because if you can't make or design good vulc footwear then how can you expect your consumer to put their faith in you to buy a pair of Goodyear Welted UK made footwear?





NIKE LEBRON 8 V2 & LEBRON 9 (JASON PETRIE Q&A)

We've covered LeBron releases on here many, many times over the last 12 months, but the shapeshifting nature of the shoe (we count five different incarnations, not counting colourways, on the shelves since last New Year) means there's always plenty to discuss. Right now the LeBron 9 is still causing a fever, whether its the Christmas Day editions actually getting an NBA outing, despite 2011's lockout making that look unlikely, or the Watch The Throne editions keeping the hype hordes guessing, but the V2 edition of the 8 was killer too — Solar Reds and the Miami Nights Low variations were hard to ignore, but the strangeness of the Miami Nights version evoked the Alpha Project (coincidentally the Niketalk alter ego of the shoe's designer) lunacy that captures the time when Crooked Tongues was born. And to see people queue and lose their minds for a brand new shoe with brand new technology? Hell, in a world where we're relentlessly told to the point of apathy, that a shoe from 1988 in a 1988 makeup is the best thing to drop all year, a new silhouette making people bug out is a beautiful thing.

If you've handled the 9, you'll know that it's one of the most advanced Nike Basketball creations in a long time and worn right, it looks amazing. 2012 is a big year for basketball on these shores, and there's plenty more to come as the 9 story evolves, including Low editions that we guarantee will instigate further pandemonium. The Nike LeBron line made undisputed power moves last year.

Nike Basketball Senior Designer and self-confessed Nike fanboy Jason Petrie kindly took the time out to answer a few questions on the reception to the LeBron line this year and what comes next...

Jason, now the LeBron 9 has had a release, to see people wearing it at street level must be the ultimate compliment, right?

Love it. We always thought it looked good nice casually — in a very techy way, which is exactly what we wanted. To take people somewhere with it, not just the same old song and dance. Going from "I would never wear those if they gave them to me for free" to having 4-5 pairs. That is really the ultimate compliment outside of LeBron playing in them.

Next year it seems like basketball will be a big story for London —has that put pressure on where you take the LeBron story?

Not really any extra pressure. We always put a lot of pressure on ourselves for any LeBron shoe, and we have had a certain story arc planned for a while now and we're just trying our best to execute. We've always known the expectations are going to rise every year, just like they do on LeBron himself, and we want to the shoe to grow with him in performance, style and stature along the way. There is a narrative, and once it’s all said and done I think you'll see that played out.

What has the feedback been so far? The height of the 9 seemed to freak a few folk out, but once it's on your foot you understand...

It has been positive for the most part. Most people love the shoe once they actually hold it in their hands or actually play in it or wear it around. Once we get to see LeBron wearing it on a regular basis I think that will add to it even more. And the feedback from #6 has been great, he loves the shoe — I mean he helped build it, and that is our most critical feedback. As for the height that’s so funny — people saying its so high and all that, but it's EXACTLY the same height as the 8, because LeBron liked that height. Because of the stability wing we were able to carve out a little excess material for more ankle mobility, so it had a different topline shape, but the height is still the same.

The Miami Nights version of the V2 8 Low was insane. It took us a few weeks to take in and appreciate it — when you started work on the 8, did you ever think you'd see it looking like that?

Nope. Our colour and graphics team really took the shoe and flipped it. I knew we had the capability to execute the process they used, but the colours, graphics, idea behind it, all that blew me away when I first saw it. And the first version was a mid! So, as usual, the team exceeded expectations and really took the 8 to another brand new place. Really capped off the line well.

Are we going to see more shoes from the Basketball category merging Flywire with Fuse in the future?

I'd say you can probably bet on that.

The 9 Low looks dramatically different. It's far more than just a chop of the original — when does that drop?

We wanted something that was in the family but a new expression of the 9. With it being meant for summer there were a lot of things we could change so that it was more suited for summertime. You should see it start to appear in the spring sometime, you know, right when the weather is warming up and you need to get out there in a pair of lows — either out on the blacktop, or casually. My favourite part of the shoe was LeBron's reaction when he first saw the rendering — he said "You could really hoop in those!" and yes, you can, they have all the performance benefits you need to play all day long, but in a wearable, lowtop silhouette.

What's your take on the preoccupation with basketball retro? Is it tough to build on Nike's existing basketball legacy?

That’s a tough one, because I am as big a fan of retro as anyone and I’m out there buying Pennys and Barkleys like everybody else! Its a shame how sometimes people get trapped in old thinking and won’t let go of retro even a little though. I mean, back when we were kids, I wanted nothing to do with a shoe from 5 years ago. We always wanted the next new thing. I don’t buy retros because they are hot — I buy them because I was there and couldn’t get them, or wore them out back in the day. My favorite release as far as retro goes from last year was the Flight LWP - that’s the kind of retro I want to see more of — authentic, OG colours, fanboy stuff. I love that.

Anyway, all those old hoops shoes have so much history and ride with a very rich legacy, so it's tough to battle against that, but I feel like what we are doing in Nike Basketball now honours that legacy and is taking it somewhere fresh and new that kids 20 years from now can look back to. I believe we always respect the past and even wink to it from time to time, but we are totally taking basketball shoes to the next stage of their journey, really pioneering new things and pushing the silhouette, just like those old classics did — and the goal is to create modern classics every time we put pen to paper. Is it tough? Well, there are big shoes to fill for sure but we all love the game and Nike so much it only seems like a fun challenge to us.

Were there any shoes that inspired the LeBron 9? Back in the day Flight and Force catered to two types of players, but the 9 seems to be a mix of both...

Not really — none that were a direct inspiration anyway. A part of my shoes always comes from my love of shoes from the past, so sometimes we will share a thought, or try to improve on something but never really taking a part of a shoe and trying to put it on another shoe unless there is a direct request from an athlete or something like that.





NIKE FREE RUN+ 2 (ROB DOLAN Q&A)

The Nike Free Run+ 2 might be the best overall shoe of 2011. It's a great casual runner (though you'd have to be a psychopath to take on a marathon in Free), it was given Tier Zero makeovers in a smart bid to catch the cool kids taking up running but crucially, to look at people's feet in London, Tokyo and New York and see a brand new shoe on their feet after years of vulc, brogues and retro was a beautiful thing. The design of the Free Run+ 2 is progressive but appealing, making it a perfect example of Nike Running's current wave of proof that running shoes don't have to look so damned busy. Running shoes got beautiful again with Free and Lunarlon.

What grabbed us the most about the Free Run+ 2? Having loved the debut Free Run, this sequel just improved one everything. It's worth mentioning that the Free 5.0 patterning was on point from the start, so any changes for this shoe were minor tweaks, but those overlays on the upper, the asymmetric lacing and that that sock-like fit were what shoes should look like in 2011. Then there were the colours, because while more members of the Crooked team took up running this year, there's still a need to pose in a pair, and the reflective Shield pack, Chlorine Blues, Brazil and London versions all delivered in the colourway stakes. This year's a big one for athletics, and with 2008 being the debut of Flywire and Lunar foam, 2012 looks set to debut some new innovations for Nike's Running category. We're sure that Free will still play a significant role in those proceedings.

Nike Running's Footwear Design Director Rob Dolan kindly took the time out to answer some Free Run+ 2 related questions...

Rob, those overlays and underlays have an organic feel — was that an aesthetic or functional decision?

Actually they are both! Aesthetically, these were influenced by cellular structures that are being digitally designed in the world of architecture and product design. These forms create a feeling of openness while they functionally deliver lightweight structure and support. There is a human quality in the softened geometric shapes that work well with the body and Free’s concept of natural motion. The reductionist approach of taking away material and only leaving what is functionally needed creates this new aesthetic & allows the outer cage to move & flex with the foot while giving it support.

Were you surprised at the popularity of the Free Run+ 2? The first Free Run went down well, but this was something else...

Yes it has been amazing to see the Free Run become so widely adopted and loved. Free and the concept of barefoot running has continued to increase in popularity as a preference for many runners. The combination of authentic performance with style has made it a winner.

The Nike Running Category seems to have exploded in 2011 — was there a conscious effort over the last few years to make Nike running shoes look even better?

Great design that couples performance with style has always been a part of Nike. We have done a lot of work in the past few years to be at the forefront of trends, and have listened closely to what consumers have been asking for as well as trying to lead them with some of our more directional designs. There were a lot of runners who wanted their performance packaged in a simple, elegant way that reflected more of their lifestyle and the modern aesthetic they appreciate. Sounds simple, but easier said than done. It takes an awareness of style and the right combination of form, colour, materials and innovation that I think only Nike can deliver.

Does the Considered program create its own solutions? The no-sew minimalism seems to be key to some of our favourite runners...

Often times the way of making a product can define its aesthetic. Eco-conscious design started out with a very specific look, but has simply become an overarching principle to all design at Nike. Our no-sew construction does create a sleek, minimal look, but also helps deliver a lightweight shoe with a more seamless interior for the runner.

Hardcore runners still seem to be a fickle bunch when it comes to shoes — is seeing positive feedback from them the ultimate compliment in a lot of ways?

Absolutely. We strive to deliver the best running shoes for the best runners in the world. Seeing them respond so strongly to Free is really rewarding. The beauty is that Free technology works for all kinds of runners, hardcore athletes to your everyday runner. Everyone can enjoy the benefits and experience of running in Free.

The colourways have been absolutely killer — the Chlorine Blue and Shield editions got a lot of love — back in the day, Terra T/Cs and other Nikes had their own trademark colours, are you trying to bring that back?

We have an amazing colour design team at Nike and have worked hard to create separation and lead the industry with our approach to colour. A lot of our signature running shoes have become trendsetting with the way we use specific colour combinations and colour blocking. We bring a great assortment of colours every season, but do work to create “the one” signature colour that everyone will remember. So many of Nike’s shoes have an iconic colourway associated them with. It’s cool to hear people talk about their favorite Nikes and the strong recollection of that first and most memorable colour.

There seems to have been an explosion in running over the last year or two that Nike's done a good job of supporting — did you see that coming?

Running has been booming and Nike has been there listening, and helping runners along the way. We participate in big marathons to smaller 5k races around the globe helping runners reach their goals. Things like Nike+ and our Nike+ SportBand & GPS SportWatch have been a major part of Nike helping to build a community space for runners. More than ever people are connecting digitally and running is yet another way they do so. We are connecting with runners with our products, but also with the experiences we create to help fuel their runs and keep them motivated, challenged and informed. It is an amazing time to be a part of the running communities around the world.

Does that boom in casual running create a market for running shoes that can be worn for performance and non-performance purposes? In a lot of ways, is Free the perfect technology for that, because even everyday wear is beneficial?

We have seen a lot of people not only running in our shoes, but wearing our kicks for the style. Nike Free has seen crossover and adoption by the fashion world and we have been flattered! Free has great benefits for running and are awesome to hang out in.

Next year's obviously a big year for athletics — traditionally that's meant big things from Nike. Has that meant a certain pressure to innovate and dominate the proceedings?

Innovation is at the heart of what we do at Nike and so is serving our athletes to help them reach their potential. All I can say is there are some absolutely amazing innovations that will be revealed this next year. Absolutely. Amazing.

As far as part three goes, once you've got a good product, is it tough to change the formula? Free 5.0 seems to need few modifications to the original pattern...

It is not easy to continuously one-up yourself, but that is what we aim to do. When we design a new shoe, we don’t just make it new, we make it better – that is innovation. The Free Run 2 will be hard to beat, but we have some new ideas and innovations being tested. So far, part three is looking really good! Can’t wait to show it off next summer!