QUOTE:just use dylon cold dye like rob says. imo though you just need to apply it with a large soft brush and rather than actually painting it on just let the canvas take it when the brush touches it rather than actually making brush strokes. you may need to do a few applications to get a solid colour though. dipping the shoe in dye is a bad idea though as even normal tap water has a tendancy to cause the glues in the shoe to degrade so a dye which is water based will do the same and eventually it WILL start to come unstuck. carefull not to touch the liner though cos many liners are made out of synthetics that will not dye evenly even with dylon dyes that are made specifically for synthetics. as and example trying to dye a white liner black would result in a patchy grey colour.this has been one of the best threads i have seen in such a long time. major props to everyone who shared knowledge. now, i have a questions for you seasoned customizers. the topic of canvas has barely been touched upon in this thread and the recommended ink for canvas was fabric markers. now my general inquiry is what particular fabric marker/paint do you suggest? what steps can I go about as to applying the marker/paint to the canvas? the particular shoe I will be customizing is a vans sk8-hi. any/all tips would be more than helpful, ie application, drying time/process, how to prevent bleeding, any final coats to apply to keep the custom from fading, etc etc. don't mean to be real picky, but i would like to do it right the first time around, hopefully[newspaper]
ghettrocentricity
GZC
Posted @ 27.06.2006 - 04:39AM
Member since 08.05.2005
GZC
Posted @ 27.06.2006 - 04:39AM
Member since 08.05.2005
sneakaz
???
Posted @ 05.02.2006 - 05:54PM
Member since 19.07.2005
???
Posted @ 05.02.2006 - 05:54PM
Member since 19.07.2005
“The only cool thing about you is me”
Excellent thread CT, will hopefully pick up lots of tips here!
Ok, here goes:
How does one firmly attach a flexible stencil (made of card or any material that is fairly floppy!) in order to avoid the paint bleeding underneath and to ensure that it leaves behind a frech and clean line?
Cheers [beer_right]
ghettrocentricity
GZC
Posted @ 05.02.2006 - 06:54PM
Member since 08.05.2005
GZC
Posted @ 05.02.2006 - 06:54PM
Member since 08.05.2005
QUOTE:buy some sticky printable paper from partners and run it through the printer to get you design on it then carefully cut it out with a scalpel, then use as any old stencil it cost me £6 for 20 a4 sheetsExcellent thread CT, will hopefully pick up lots of tips here! Ok, here goes: How does one firmly attach a flexible stencil (made of card or any material that is fairly floppy!) in order to avoid the paint bleeding underneath and to ensure that it leaves behind a frech and clean line? Cheers [beer_right]
Excellent move getting this thread up and running... This should be the one place you need to come to find out the deal on customs. Thought I'd throw up the page I did on the step-by-step custom job a while back for a bit of basic info http://www.crookedtongues.com/community/forums/threadPost.php?t=524
If anyone has a copy of that SBTG PDF file downloaded and can get it hosted, bring it on!
Also, this thread covers a lot of useful points and tips: http://www.crookedtongues.com/community/forums/threadPost.php?t=8951&cp=1&pls=0&tc=undefined
"What paint do I need to use?"
All you need to know is here:
http://www.turtlefeathers.com/text/angelus/angelus-paint.html
These guys are good to deal with. It's more of a 'home business' type feel than a regular internet shopping scenario, but they accept Paypal so international orders are hassle free on that tip. As yet there's no UK supplier, so you have to get it from the States. Postage roughly equates to the same price again as your paints come to, so bear that in mind!
If you wanna do it right, this is what to use...
sneakaz
???
Posted @ 06.02.2006 - 04:01PM
Member since 19.07.2005
???
Posted @ 06.02.2006 - 04:01PM
Member since 19.07.2005
“The only cool thing about you is me”
ghettrocentricity
GZC
Posted @ 06.02.2006 - 05:12PM
Member since 08.05.2005
GZC
Posted @ 06.02.2006 - 05:12PM
Member since 08.05.2005
theres a pretty good thread over on nt where i had a (ahem) discussion with meth and a guy called steppingrazor thats got quite a few helpfull tips on mixing your own paints and a few other techniques.http://p093.ezboard.com/fniketalkfrm26.showMessage?topicID=476.topic
^^^Excellent work G. This thread already has taught me more stuff, and it's great to see heads pooling al;l this stuff in one place on CT at last. I have more to come, I'm sure![beer_right]
ghettrocentricity
GZC
Posted @ 06.02.2006 - 06:41PM
Member since 08.05.2005
GZC
Posted @ 06.02.2006 - 06:41PM
Member since 08.05.2005
QUOTE:i think im gonna try to write up a guide but i havnt got time this week. that sabotage one wasnt much cop and only realy teaches you to do shoes like the ones in the guide. so im gonna try to type somethin up a bit more general.^^^Excellent work G. This thread already has taught me more stuff, and it's great to see heads pooling al;l this stuff in one place on CT at last. I have more to come, I'm sure![beer_right]
Another useful piece of info is this PDF file from the Turtlefeathers site about using Angelus leather paint:
http://www.turtlefeathers.com/pdf/paint-faq.pdf
Good basic common sense info on using the paint and preping surfaces etc... One thing I would say, the deglazer they refer to in the first part is not available to international customers (outside the US) (even though I've had it sent to me before!)
Don't worry though, as far as I've determined it's not really significantly different to acetone, so it's no biggie.
I currently use acetone and scotchbrite pads to remove the factory finish from my shoes. Is there anything better than these pads? As they have the tendancy to 'gunk up' pretty quickly when removing the finish from Nikes. The white coating they use is particularly hard/messy to remove.....
ghettrocentricity
GZC
Posted @ 07.02.2006 - 12:10PM
Member since 08.05.2005
GZC
Posted @ 07.02.2006 - 12:10PM
Member since 08.05.2005
QUOTE:ive just got a big bag of lint free cloths/rags. i dont think you realy need something as abrasive as a scotchbrite pad. plus its good to have something thats gonna soak up the crap as it comes off rather than just smear it around a bit. i also find that your good old jaycloths do as good a job as anything. you shouldnt realy need to take off much more than a cloth should take off, the nikes that your talking about though that have acres and acres of gunk come off tend incidentally not to be leather (like huaraches and a lot of that kinda stuff) you can also use a soft sponge for it as its pretty absorbant again. i dont think you can get over the fact that its a messy horrible job, you just gotta keep at it and get messy.I currently use acetone and scotchbrite pads to remove the factory finish from my shoes. Is there anything better than these pads? As they have the tendancy to 'gunk up' pretty quickly when removing the finish from Nikes. The white coating they use is particularly hard/messy to remove.....
Yeah, basically anything that doesn't give off fibres will be fine. A J cloth should be perfect...
157 - One thing I've wondered is what a Scotchbrite pad is! Got a pack shot you can put up, or failing that, can you name a shop I can get 'em from? I remember those curry AT1's you did a while back being a pretty good effect done with them... (I also thought maybe you should post the link to that thread here too, for reference...)
Another thing... I asked about suede dyes a little while back, so I thought I'd post a bit of info here, for ref.
On the NikeTalk thread further up this thread mention is made of using Artline Permanent markers for colouring suede:
You can buy them online in the UK from here:
http://www.suppliesstore.co.uk/results.asp?SearchTerm=artline&Category=
As Methamphibian says "dying suede with a black marker is awesome
in particular ARTLINE 90 black permanent pens are really really effective in Suede, Nubuck, Fabric, Mesh, Nylon, RUBBER (to a certain extent, especially if you are going for an intentionally f-ed up look like i did on my chuck taylors) and PATENT LEATHER. yes, patent leather.
the only thing is, if you want to retain that contrast stitching from the suede you have to use dye, this marker will color over the stitching as well..."
Also, 157 dropped this link for Fiebings suede dyes: http://www.leprevo.co.uk/dyes.html
You can buy them online in the UK from here:
http://www.suppliesstore.co.uk/results.asp?SearchTerm=artline&Category=
As Methamphibian says "dying suede with a black marker is awesome
in particular ARTLINE 90 black permanent pens are really really effective in Suede, Nubuck, Fabric, Mesh, Nylon, RUBBER (to a certain extent, especially if you are going for an intentionally f-ed up look like i did on my chuck taylors) and PATENT LEATHER. yes, patent leather.
the only thing is, if you want to retain that contrast stitching from the suede you have to use dye, this marker will color over the stitching as well..."
Also, 157 dropped this link for Fiebings suede dyes: http://www.leprevo.co.uk/dyes.html
ghettrocentricity
GZC
Posted @ 07.02.2006 - 01:31PM
Member since 08.05.2005
GZC
Posted @ 07.02.2006 - 01:31PM
Member since 08.05.2005
^^^^^^^^^yeah. there also good for blacking out that fake suede nubuck stuff if it fades out like on iv s or the blue black 180s (you kow the stuff)
there also great for blacking out the nylon tongues on dunks or other similar stuff(man made fibres) that dye wont take too. nylon liners etc..
QUOTE:I have tried using cloths but they tend to just dig into the coating (if that makes any sense?), whereas the scotchbrites take it down to the bare leather. I'm doing a pair of Revolutions at the moment and the white coating comes off like white gloss paint! Rob I've been using the green scotchbrite pads, Homebase and B&Q sell them.QUOTE:I currently use acetone and scotchbrite pads to remove the factory finish from my shoes. Is there anything better than these pads? As they have the tendancy to 'gunk up' pretty quickly when removing the finish from Nikes. The white coating they use is particularly hard/messy to remove.....ive just got a big bag of lint free cloths/rags. i dont think you realy need something as abrasive as a scotchbrite pad. plus its good to have something thats gonna soak up the crap as it comes off rather than just smear it around a bit. i also find that your good old jaycloths do as good a job as anything. you shouldnt realy need to take off much more than a cloth should take off, the nikes that your talking about though that have acres and acres of gunk come off tend incidentally not to be leather (like huaraches and a lot of that kinda stuff) you can also use a soft sponge for it as its pretty absorbant again. i dont think you can get over the fact that its a messy horrible job, you just gotta keep at it and get messy.
ghettrocentricity
GZC
Posted @ 07.02.2006 - 02:07PM
Member since 08.05.2005
GZC
Posted @ 07.02.2006 - 02:07PM
Member since 08.05.2005
^^^^^
i think your going a bit deep dude.
i did some revolutions a while back and they needed very little on the way of acetone.
you dont realy need to get the colour off down to the raw leather just take off the invisible pu coating.
the white stuff that comes off is esentially paint just like your going to apply so your absolutley fine to paint over it.
these lasted fine and the acetone usage was minimal
Aah cool, cheers for that tip mate. I've already done one shoe so I suppose I'd better get scrubbing on the other one...
Nice one for the pics man... I've been getting in a few pairs of those Chinese made NB 574's from TK Maxx for £20 a pair and I'm tring out various stuff on them, so I'm interested in whatever I can do that's new. I have a light grey pair in suede which I think I may do with the Artline markers (depending on what nice colours I can find - I've a feeling it's just red, black, blue & green in them)...
I may also look at getting some other markers like Pantones or ZIG Kuritaki's (or whatever thy're called) Basically the alcohol-based graphic rendering markers to do the suede with. Again, I think it could be problematic with some colours though as it'll make a pretty blotchy finish in lighter ones, but we'll see.
(I'll be posting some remixed 574's very soon btw...!)
Another bit of info I could do with knowing... Laces - WHERE?!!
Of course there is http://www.lacesforless.com which has got a good selection, and is dirt cheap... Problem is the time-lag of ordering from the States and also having to order a load of pairs to make it worth it. I remember somebody mentioning a lace shop or something at Tottenham Court Rd maybe a while back on the old forum...?
Any info on that would be great - Easy to buy in the UK, fat laces through to skinnies in a range of dope bright colours is what I'm in need of really...
QUOTE:those are sweet, how do you go about blending the colours like that??^^^^^ i think your going a bit deep dude. i did some revolutions a while back and they needed very little on the way of acetone. you dont realy need to get the colour off down to the raw leather just take off the invisible pu coating. the white stuff that comes off is esentially paint just like your going to apply so your absolutley fine to paint over it. these lasted fine and the acetone usage was minimal
ghettrocentricity
GZC
Posted @ 08.02.2006 - 01:49PM
Member since 08.05.2005
GZC
Posted @ 08.02.2006 - 01:49PM
Member since 08.05.2005
QUOTE:airbrush, those were done a long time ago now thoughQUOTE:^^^^^ i think your going a bit deep dude. i did some revolutions a while back and they needed very little on the way of acetone. you dont realy need to get the colour off down to the raw leather just take off the invisible pu coating. the white stuff that comes off is esentially paint just like your going to apply so your absolutley fine to paint over it. these lasted fine and the acetone usage was minimalthose are sweet, how do you go about blending the colours like that??
Another Angelus question, whats the Acrylic Finisher like? Is it essential to use it and does it affect the appearance of the base coat much?
ghettrocentricity
GZC
Posted @ 11.02.2006 - 01:22PM
Member since 08.05.2005
GZC
Posted @ 11.02.2006 - 01:22PM
Member since 08.05.2005
QUOTE:angelus finisher does give a slightly more glossy coat than you might expect and even the matte finish has a kinda satin look to it but it doesnt change the colour of it at all. one thing i would say is that it can cause colour bleed as its drying to colours like black and although some people do i wouldnt reccomend applying it with a brush at all on an area of the shoe that actually has a design on it because of the possibility of bleeding. if you dont use duller with the paint(as duller weakens the paint) then theres actually less of a need to apply a finishing coat at all and i know of quite a few people who dont even bother but if you do use duller then its a good idea to buy something that comes in a can like liquitex matte medium/finisher(art stores have lots of finishing products that dont need to have the qualities of angelus) or apply angelus with a cheap airbrush. imo its always a good idea to buy a cheap airbrush and some propellant for jobs like this cos using any finisher with a can/airbrush gets rid of any hastle when applying it..Another Angelus question, whats the Acrylic Finisher like? Is it essential to use it and does it affect the appearance of the base coat much?
Hmmm... For me it does what it says on the tin - finishes the job! It has the same effect as putting a picture in a glass frame - just adds a transparent layer that makes the finish look more - er - finished!
I apply with a small and soft paint brush as it means I don't have to mask the shoe off to do it, and it works fine. As G alludes to, it's very thin, so it will bleed, but it's not a destructive bleed that affects the paint or anything, just that you have to be careful if you want to 'spot varnish' with it as it's so runny. It's better suited to an overall coating job really.
The stuff lasts forever though so one tiny capful will cover 2 coats on a pair of shoes when used with a brush. I've been using satin, which I'd say is on a par with the raw Angelus paint finish gloss-wise, and I've just ordered the duller and some Matte finisher, so I'm hoping that will be a bit more flat...
ghettrocentricity
GZC
Posted @ 11.02.2006 - 06:30PM
Member since 08.05.2005
GZC
Posted @ 11.02.2006 - 06:30PM
Member since 08.05.2005
QUOTE:only problem is that if you use duller to get a matte finish as soon as you apply the finisher (even matte angelus) you get a kinda satin finsh instead. the matte finish isnt actually matte tis just like the satin realy. i even tested this on a pair for myself. one shoe done with satin finisher and one with matte and there geniunley is no noticable difference. id always reccomend angelus satin finsh applied with an airbrush for a no hastle and close to factory finish. and rob, your right the big bottles of finisher lierally last for ever and ever. ive still not used more than 1/4 of a bottle and ive done hundreds of pairs. GHETTROCENTRICITY AND ROB L CT CUSTOM FORUM TAG TEAM CHAMPIONS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! [beer_right][beer_right][beer_right][beer_right][beer_left][beer_left][beer_left][beer_left][beard]Hmmm... For me it does what it says on the tin - finishes the job! It has the same effect as putting a picture in a glass frame - just adds a transparent layer that makes the finish look more - er - finished! I apply with a small and soft paint brush as it means I don't have to mask the shoe off to do it, and it works fine. As G alludes to, it's very thin, so it will bleed, but it's not a destructive bleed that affects the paint or anything, just that you have to be careful if you want to 'spot varnish' with it as it's so runny. It's better suited to an overall coating job really. The stuff lasts forever though so one tiny capful will cover 2 coats on a pair of shoes when used with a brush. I've been using satin, which I'd say is on a par with the raw Angelus paint finish gloss-wise, and I've just ordered the duller and some Matte finisher, so I'm hoping that will be a bit more flat...
Here's a post I've made about using alcohol-based graphic markers to dye suede, for future refernce...
http://www.crookedtongues.com/community/forums/threadPost.php?t=9265&cp=1&pls=0&tc=undefined
[beer_right]
Tag team champions for sure!
OK, quick question, would appreciate any helpful advice.
Bagged a cheap pair of red suede adidas campus from ebay. Very simple red suede upper, with white stripes, sole and laces. All i want to do is turn the white suede 3stripes black - i figure with some fat black laces these could achieve an effective customisation pretty easily.
Any tips on turning these white stripes black?
Cheers people [smile]
If the stripes are suede, use an alcohol based graphic marker - ZIG Kurecolor from Stationary World on Park St is cool - £3.95 each... The beauty of using alcohol based markers as opposed to more hardcore solvent permanent markers is that the stiching stays visible and looks more naturally finished...
If the stripes are leather or PVC, a quick and easy way will be the Artline markers as mentioned further up this thread. You can pick one of them up at Apperleys next to Montpellier Health Centre my man... Prices are about £1.50 inc vat for the skinny ones...
My tip for getting a trouble-free finish on adi-stripes with the serrated edges is to get a piece of thin card - a train ticket is ideal - and wedge it between the edge of the stripe and the shoe to protect the surface of the shoe from accidental ink marks. To get a proper finish it's essential to colour the sides of the stripes as well as the surface, and this is the best way to do it without f*****g it up!
[beer_right]
ghettrocentricity
GZC
Posted @ 16.02.2006 - 01:14PM
Member since 08.05.2005
GZC
Posted @ 16.02.2006 - 01:14PM
Member since 08.05.2005
QUOTE:its the one thing that i hate about doing adi customs. and putting serrated stripes on adicolours is beyond stupid.adi-stripes with the serrated edges. [beer_right]
^^^ Yeah right... Had never thought of that ^^^
Cheers for the advice Sir RobL OBE...
The daps arrived this afternoon, and actually, the stripes are leather, not suede as i had thought. I'll go find myself one of those markers tomorrow... Ill post the results once done.
And a nice tip on the train ticket thing, i like that...!
Cheers bloke
Heres some Paisley nutters i did myself with just permanent marker. Can't wait to get my hands on a few pairs white/white high dunks and do some crazy customs.
<br>
<br>
GRIPSE
England
Posted @ 17.02.2006 - 08:08PM
Member since 14.01.2006
England
Posted @ 17.02.2006 - 08:08PM
Member since 14.01.2006
“Crooked Tongues - Online Resource”
Hi could someone please help! How do i apply finisher? I have a matte finisher (angelus) and was wondering would it be ok to put it on with a brush? And how many layers do i put on? Also what types of brushes should i use for customising and does anybody know where i can ge them from in the UK?? Any help would be much appreciated!!
I use a soft brush for applying the finisher. I think the odd hair can fall off the brush when you do this though, and it will dry into the finish so you have to keep an eye out, but in general it's the least hassle way to do it... (Ghettrocentricity will tell you to airbrush it I think...!)
The finisher is a pretty compliant substance, and you'll find that it 'does what it's told' when you apply it... AS LONG AS YOU DO IT SPARINGLY!!! Don't splodge loads on, just a reasonable amount per brush-load and you'll be right.
It's not like paint in that it doesn't need a heavy amount of attention to cover the surface. It's very much like water, so you almost push it around with the brush and it covers the surface far more easily than paint. It also dries super-quick, so by the time you've done one shoe, then the next, the first will be dry and ready for coat 2. I've always done 2 coats myself, but it depends on how you feel... I've heard people say 2-4 coats, so I assume a 4-layer coat will give better protection from scuffing etc...
Brushes-wise... Brushes themselves come in numbered sizes. I use a '6' to do the finisher, but a smaller one for actual painting. Infact, the size I'm using a lot right now is called a 'spotter' and is really tiny and actually seems to be a size "5/0". The other thing about brushes is what they are made from. Synthetic (nylon) or natural (animal hair). For flat colour painting there's very little in it, but you can pay a lot more for natural....
To buy them, go to a local art-store - they will have tons and will probably be able to give you a bit of help deciding exactly what to buy. There's also that place Hobbycraft which is an out-of-town mall type shop with everything craft-wise in it. They are like a quid a pop for natural or synthetic brushes in there.
I'd suggest maybe going for a spotter for minor detail, and for getting in under sewn-on panel edges cleanly etc. A soft (natural) size 6 brush for your finisher and something in-between for main area fill, such as a 2 or 3 sized brush.
Hope that helps...?! [beer_right]
(I just realised most of mine are pretty shagged now and I need to stock up too!)
ghettrocentricity
GZC
Posted @ 19.02.2006 - 03:34AM
Member since 08.05.2005
GZC
Posted @ 19.02.2006 - 03:34AM
Member since 08.05.2005
yeah an airbrush isnt realy neccecary for the finisher but it makes it easier.
although i would say do not buy natural brushes as the acetone content of angelus paint will destroy them a lot quicker than cheaper man made ones. it just ends up costing about 3 times as much to use natural hair brushes. windsor and newton to a very good range of cheap man made fibre brushes that stand up well to acetone abuse. i cant remember there name but there blue with a clear plastic end on them, they should be about £2 a pop from an art shop.
oh and by the way, clean them well with water after you use them, thats the most important thing to stop them from falling apart
GRIPSE
England
Posted @ 19.02.2006 - 04:53PM
Member since 14.01.2006
England
Posted @ 19.02.2006 - 04:53PM
Member since 14.01.2006
“Crooked Tongues - Online Resource”
QUOTE:Those are tight! Did you use any special kind of marker or was it just a regular permanent marker?Heres some Paisley nutters i did myself with just permanent marker. Can't wait to get my hands on a few pairs white/white high dunks and do some crazy customs.
ok, i need help. i doing some shoes for a show. now as a stencil artist i want to stencil the shoes. now i am using spray paint, belton. have found the paint flakes off when i remove the stencil. Have only found out about this acetone thing, so used nail varnish remover s**t but didn't help. any tips? going to go and get the real stuff from the art store the morn. but any tips with spary would help.
256 BIT SSL SECURE PAYMENT
